Dragontail Peak 2012: “Triple Couloirs”
Colchuck Lake is an incredible place to be. It was made even more incredible by the perfect weather and climbing conditions we found on 2 days in early May, 2012.
Taking advantage of the cold snap, my good friend Nick Gaddy joined me to climb the Triple Couloirs Route on Dragon tail Peak. The road was still closed and we giggled that it would probably open the day we left due to the lacking fluff on the way up. After hiking the 8 miles up to Colchuck Lake, we decided to scurry off to the North Buttress Couloir of Colchuck Peak for our first day in the area. On this climb, Nick and I shared a wonderful sunny day in such a beautiful place. I think Climbing in this time of years is especially beautiful. Youthful snow lingers in every crack and corner of the towering Giants. Summers rapid approach reminding you that with every days sun the alpine environment is changing, much like in the rest of the world. And as so often happens when I climb and sleep in the mountains, I begin to perceive the planet as another world entirely, the scale, the life force energy, The calm that surges after a day out among Giants. I see clearly what I am always on the look out for: the beauty.
Triple Couloirs was next, so we made dinner and listened to the waves of wind swirl above our heads.
The next day we woke at 3am to catch the first of three Couloirs on Dragontail Peak in cold shape. It turned out to be a really fun alpine ice climb in an unforgettable setting. I just kept imagining that some gnarled hard-skinned creature was going to pop out of his cave to stare blankly in our direction. A Perfect day for our intentions, and a great spring trip to start the summer….Or at least the next 10 days living out of my car in Icicle Creek before I depart for Chile!